Hairstyles Reclaim Your Self - Worth & Help Gain Confidence

In haircutting not only face shape but posture and stature must be considered in order that the balance and proportions of the haircut flatter the whole person and not just the face

Tell us about your background and journey?

I grew up in a working-class family in Kent, England. My mother and father worked multiple jobs between them to pay for my education and I did reasonably well at school. When it came to deciding on universities I had already been working in a local hair salon on evenings and weekends, where I had fallen in love with the environment and creativity.

My father, separated from my mother at this point, forbid me to take this path. Fortunately, my mother was fully supportive. I think the owner of this local salon saw something in me and insisted I study hairdressing in London at the world-renowned Vidal Sassoon salons.

I left full-time education at 16 and immediately started my three-year apprenticeship training program at Vidal Sassoon in Mayfair. The apprenticeship wage at the time was £320 a month - which didn't even cover my travel costs. I left kent on a commuter coach at 6.15am every morning, and wouldn't get back home until after 8pm every evening.

I excel in the apprenticeship and finished the program early - this really was my calling! Almost 10 years ago I joined Billi Currie, on Chiltern Street in Marylebone, London. Billi and Debbie, the owners, are regarded as hairdressing royalty in the UK’s hairdressing industry and are both exceptional haircutters and wonderful people. They were looking for someone to lead the hair color side of their business and it has been my London base ever since.

At Vidal Sassoon, you are encouraged to specialize in either cutting or coloring, which I could never understand. My passion was always in creating a total and cohesive image, and since working at Billi Currie, I have felt empowered to grow my skill set to include all aspects of hairdressing. I am fortunate now to work with a high-profile client list that appreciates my holistic approach to their hair and image.

In the last few years, I have also work for haircare brands whilst remaining at Billi Currie. I had heard about the new Olaplex technology before it was officially brought to the UK and immediately knew it was a pivotal moment in the hairdressing industry. I was fortunate to have worked directly on the official launch in the UK and as a senior educator for them for the initial years of their launch.

I am now also in my fourth year of being one of the global creative team members for Evo, which is an Australian owned haircare brand. This has allowed me to travel all over the world working on education, product development, platform work, and brand shoots. One year, in particular, I was between Sydney and London every other month!

What are some of the top colleges for studying hairstylist courses across the world?

It is well known that the level of detail and precision that is taught at Vidal Sassoon is second to none, and I have been so grateful to have learned the foundations of hairdressing in this way. They have very clear and strong views about what hair cutting and coloring means to them and I have respect for that.

Since leaving I have enjoyed building on that foundation with a variety of skills that would have been deemed unacceptable in Sassoon salons (Using round brushes, curling tongs, and hair extensions, etc). I truly believe it is important to learn the rules before breaking them, but also to keep an open mind and stay open to technological developments and new techniques within our industry.

I have been fortunate to work with a number of specialists to learn a variety of techniques and I respect each of them for their specific point of view. Edwards & co, Australia is a brand that could be described as the antithesis of Sassoon’s aesthetic (lived-in, undone, beach hair), and they are experts at this aesthetic. Debbie G, co-owner of Billi Currie, also ran the Sassoon academies in London and now heads up her own private education company, which evolves and modernizes all of the core techniques that is so important for our craft.

How has the pandemic affected your profession?

During the pandemic, all work ceased for four months. This was the longest break I had ever had from doing hair, or working at all. I was able to take a pause and have felt so grateful that I have felt just as inspired by our industry now as I was 15 years ago. We are now back working in salons, with many changes in place. This has taught me how adaptable we are as humans.

We now work in full PPE, practice social distancing where possible, and have removed many of the elements that are expected during a hairdressing visit such as refreshments and reading materials. I have noticed how many of these measures have made communication so much harder - a hugely important part of our job. I believe it is important to not resist what we cannot change and so adapting is our only choice.

At our salon, we are taking each day and week as it comes, and enjoying each moment we are able to do what we love while keeping everyone safe and well.

Please explain to us how an individual can choose his hairstyle based on the face structure, any tip you would like to share?

Suitability is a core part of hairdressing. I Believe some of us have an innate skill of knowing what will make a person look and feel amazing, but there are a number of theories that can also be applied. In haircutting not only face shape but posture and stature must be considered in order that the balance and proportions of the haircut flatter the whole person and not just the face.

Taking into consideration someone’s personality is also essential as hair should be designed for daily life, not just a photograph. On more angular face shapes, often softer and curved lines are most flattering, while flatter, rounder faces can sometimes benefit from a haircut with angles and structure. It is also important to pay attention to the individual's features; to which do we want to draw attention, and from which would we prefer to detract. In-color and understanding of depth and tone is crucial.

Considering skin tone and eye color, decisions need to be made regarding the level of contrast we want the hair to give and which tones will flatter a person's natural coloring. I believe very little nowadays is impossible when it comes to hair. We now have products and tools that tackle length, texture, and density, as well as the foundation cutting and coloring techniques.

One of my greatest joys is the journey of taking someone to reach their hair's greatest potential. This can sometimes take months and thousands of pounds but can be so rewarding and life-changing for the client.

What is it like to be the director of Biili Currie Salon? Walk us through your day..

Before the pandemic, my days had a lot more variety. As a Creative Director at Billi Currie, my role involves leading the team and managing a busy day of international clients. Some days I may only work with one client if we are doing a total transformation, and others I may see 10 or 15 clients and work with multiple assistants.

I may also be traveling to provide education to hairdressers, working with chemists on developing formulations for new products, or on photoshoots prepping and styling the hair for images. Between these roles, I maintain my social media to showcase the work I do and constantly stay inspired by the amazing skills of those that I am fortunate to work with.

Which is your favourite book & why?

I have two books to recommend.

One is from my work, and one is for my life.
Professionally, ‘The Art of Colour’ by Johannes Itten, Is a wonderful source of knowledge for all things relating to the power of color.

In life, ‘The power of now’ by Eckhart Tolle, has been so helpful for me, and even more so during the challenging months of the pandemic. He teaches the benefits of staying in the present moment.

Interview By - Mukund Mangwani