Many districts in Andhra Pradesh have their unique weaving patterns, styles and methods. Saris that are specific to a particular district are named after their places of origin. Each of them has its own specialty and uniqueness.
Some popular varieties are discussed here.
Kalamkari
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Kalamkari works come in two exclusive styles the Srikalahasti style and the Machilipatnam style. In the Srikalahasti style, cotton fabrics are painted with a “kalam” that is a sharp-pointed pierced bamboo which regulates the flow of color onto the fabric. It is entirely hand worked.
On the other hand, Machilipatnam Kalamkari involves the use of vegetable dyed block-painting of fabrics. This form of painting was registered for the geographical indication under handicraft goods.
Mangalagiri
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| Source: OutlookIndia |
Mangalagiri a small town in Guntur district of Andhra Pradesh is home to the renowned Mangalagiri cotton. The town is also the abode of Laxmi Narasimha Swamy temple which has one of the longest gopurams.
On the locally produced Mangalagiri sarees, this gopuram design is replicated on the borders, while the rest of the saree generally remains plain.
Uppada Pattu
Weaving at Venkatagiri, a small town in Nellore district, first started about 300 years ago and was patronized by the “Velugoti“ dynasty.
Another interesting feature is that the weavers here use the pit loom technique where they sit inside a pit dug into the ground while the rest of the apparatus is on the floor.
This technique is known to produce better fabric as proximity to the ground will allow it to absorb the tension and speed and will make the fabric more breathable.
Uppada Pattu
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| Source: textilevaluechain |
Uppada Jamdani sarees are silk style sarees woven by hand in Uppada of East Godavari district. These sarees are made from the age old Jamdani method.
The name Jamdani also has Persian origins. “Jam” means flower and “Dani” means vase. This style of weaving was started in Bangladesh and expanded to India in the 18 th century.
Uppada sarees are known for their lightweight. Weavers use non-mechanical techniques in weaving these sarees. While making a saree, two weavers operate on a single loom and weave Zari (a type of gold thread) work gently on the material.
Each saree takes approximately 2 months time because of the meticulous work required. The colors used in these sarees are very attractive and flamboyant. Women often wear these sarees for special occasions.
Venkatagiri
The name Jamdani also has Persian origins. “Jam” means flower and “Dani” means vase. This style of weaving was started in Bangladesh and expanded to India in the 18 th century.
Uppada sarees are known for their lightweight. Weavers use non-mechanical techniques in weaving these sarees. While making a saree, two weavers operate on a single loom and weave Zari (a type of gold thread) work gently on the material.
Each saree takes approximately 2 months time because of the meticulous work required. The colors used in these sarees are very attractive and flamboyant. Women often wear these sarees for special occasions.
Venkatagiri
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| Source: Pinterest |
Weaving at Venkatagiri, a small town in Nellore district, first started about 300 years ago and was patronized by the “Velugoti“ dynasty.
A small group of weavers was supported by the dynasty for the exclusive purpose of weaving dhoti and turbans made of soft cotton with sophisticated embroidery for the Royal family. Gradually the weavers started moving into saree weaving which was exclusively made for the queens, royal women and other zamindars.
Venkatagiri sarees are woven on a traditional fly shuttle pit loom. The shuttles used for weaving are comparatively longer than usual Jacquard machine looms. Zari is used in extra weft for ornamentation of the designs.
Traditional Venkatagiri sarees are woven in white but they are also coming in pastel colors as per market demand.
Ponduru Khadi
Ponduru, also called the Khadi village, is situated in Srikakulum district. The Khadi produced here is the finest in India and exported to foreign countries. The quality of this fabric is so famed that Mahatma Gandhi himself visited the village and preferred to wear this Khadi.
With the increasing popularity of these fabrics, several colossal manufacturers started producing handicraft replicas using mechanized techniques en masse and selling them at a cheaper price.
Venkatagiri sarees are woven on a traditional fly shuttle pit loom. The shuttles used for weaving are comparatively longer than usual Jacquard machine looms. Zari is used in extra weft for ornamentation of the designs.
Traditional Venkatagiri sarees are woven in white but they are also coming in pastel colors as per market demand.
Ponduru Khadi
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| Source: dir.indiamart |
Ponduru, also called the Khadi village, is situated in Srikakulum district. The Khadi produced here is the finest in India and exported to foreign countries. The quality of this fabric is so famed that Mahatma Gandhi himself visited the village and preferred to wear this Khadi.
This is one of the few places in the country where the single spindle charkha is still used for spinning.
Competition From Fake Products
Competition From Fake Products
With the increasing popularity of these fabrics, several colossal manufacturers started producing handicraft replicas using mechanized techniques en masse and selling them at a cheaper price.
Simple homegrown artists who have been practicing these traditional arts for several generations are losing their livelihood to this competition.
The government has taken certain measures to distinguish genuine products from spurious ones. Tags such as Handloom mark, Wool mark, Silk mark, Seal of Cotton and Craftmark corresponding to the handloom, wool, silk, cotton and handicraft industries have been assigned to certify their authenticity.
It is upon us, the customers to inspect a product closely, determine its originality and keep these traditional arts from disappearing.
Written By: Saija Bhumireddy
The government has taken certain measures to distinguish genuine products from spurious ones. Tags such as Handloom mark, Wool mark, Silk mark, Seal of Cotton and Craftmark corresponding to the handloom, wool, silk, cotton and handicraft industries have been assigned to certify their authenticity.
It is upon us, the customers to inspect a product closely, determine its originality and keep these traditional arts from disappearing.
Written By: Saija Bhumireddy
Edited By: Anusha Vajha
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