A Peek Into Some Early Facts
- The first clothes were made from natural elements; animal skin, fur, green leaves, bone and shells.
- The Tarkhan dress found in an ancient Egyptian tomb dating back more than 5000 years is the world’s oldest woven garment yet found.
- In ancient Egypt, women wore ‘hats’ of perfumed animal fat to disguise their body odor.
Britain and the World
The Great Britain was a great empire at the heart of Europe. It is a country which has a history of centuries which was fashioned out of years of social, political, ideological and religious conflicts. Above all, it is a country which had colonies all over the world and left their marks in every sphere, every culture and every civilization.
A Brief Chronicle of British Fashion
After the Roman Invasion [200 BC]
The reign of Charlemagne [742-814] was a significant period for art and fashion. Two colored garments , crosnas and fur overcoats were popular among upper class men and women.
Anglo Saxons and Britons [200 BC-1066]
Men’s wardrobe had three main pieces; tunic, cloak and trousers considering the extreme climatic condition .But the elite wore long romanised gowns and military dress. Feminine clothing had a variety of layers, mantle, gown and head covering veil. Silk was introduced Britain in 8th century.
Norman Period [1066-1485]
There was drastic change in the fashion outlook of Norman period. Women’s dress featured a ‘side less gown’ surcote, actually adopted from men and ‘loose long’ dressing tied with a girdle. In 1216, new ideas of fashion emerged with the reign of Henry III . Men chose pointed toe shoes with laces and buttons. Interestingly, giant feminine head dress became a fashion. They were of four types – reticulated, the heart shaped, the turban, the hennin. Tailoring began in 1327.
Elizabethan era [Renaissance][1500-1600]
This was a period of collective rebirth in every aspect of English life. New notions of beauty reflected in the clothing of this period. Extravagant fabrics like damask, taffeta, Genoese velvet were used. Perfumery made its debut in the Elizabethan England with rose oil, popy water and camphor. Believe it or not! Queen Elizabeth had 2000 grand dresses in her collection. Women had a penchant for finery and farthingale. The lace fashion became very prominent.
17th-18th Century
Ribbons and laces were eliminated and black silk ties and fracs and a coat of mid-calf length were introduced.
The Victorian Era [19th Century]
At the beginning of the Victorian era, all clothes were hand-made. Clothes were expensive and were a privilege exclusively for the fashionable upper class society. By 1851, changes took by leaps and bounds. Sewing machine was invented. This facilitated the easier and cheaper manufacture of textiles. Clothes became an easily accessible commodity. But the affluent upper class society was not ready to confine to simplicity. They preferred sumptuous, classy, and decorous clothes, especially the women. Victorian England conjured up new conceptions of aesthetic standards. Victorian periodicals never let women from the clutches of Victorian ideals. Evidently, Victorian dressing was an outcome of the contemporary notions of beauty and modesty.
Before we jump into the Victorian dressing style, it is important to know about the Victorian ideals of womanhood.
Victorian Womanhood
Under the reign of ‘A Lady’ monarch, Queen Victoria, women did not have any right to vote or property. Women were delineated as mere companions of men who must be won by charming manners. They were expected to be chaste, refined and modest. Gender roles were strictly observed. This is exactly why women were envisaged as angels of beauty. These social etiquettes forced her to present and behave in a certain way. Simply throwing a gown over her physique did not work. There were many layers to achieve the picture of perfection. This might be strange to us but not for the women then.
The First Layer – The basic
Garters held up the stockings that reached above the knee. Cotton drawers went over the stockings which were drawn as two overlapping flaps. Besides these, a sleeveless knee length chemise were used, completed the basic undergarments.
The Second Layer – Form and Function
Corset - A corset was pulled in the waist and supported her bust line. It was strengthened with steel or whalebone and fastened at the front with long ties to adjust the tightness.
Crinoline - Crinoline was a cage of steel which supported the skirt and held the skirt in perfect bell shape.
The Third Layer - Practicality
Camisole -A camisole went over the corset to protect the expensive garment from perspiration and oils. Over the camisole were the two petticoats, the former, to help the gown lay smooth and the latter, more fancier and embroidered.
The Fourth Layer - The Dress
After so many intricacies comes the gown. High neck and long sleeves for the day, neckline dipped for dinner and off shoulder or strap sleeves for pompous balls.
The Fifth layer - Accessories
Gloves and bonnets were integral parts of Victorian dressing. They never forgot to decorate them with caps and gloves even near the hearth. They preferred half-boots with thicker soles for a walk and thin-soled slippers for ball gowns. For a journey, she would always carry a shawl or crape and a parasol to protect her skin from sun. Finally a small handbag completes her elegance.
Through the course of time clothing industry has made giant strides and the cutting edge fashions are introduced as quick as a wink. The old curious Victorian style is now constrained in museums as monuments of feminine beauty.
Written by:-Abija P B
Edited by - Gunika Manchanda
.jpeg)
0 Comments