Victoria Jenkins - Redefining Fashion with Purpose and Inclusivity (Vogue 25 Recognition, Founder & CEO of Unhidden)

"In a world not designed for us, we must speak up, push boundaries, and create the change we want to see."

1. You’ve been at the forefront of adaptive fashion and disability advocacy, founding Unhidden and achieving remarkable milestones. Could you share a bit about your journey and what initially inspired you to enter this space?

It’s certainly been a varied and unexpected route; when I initially had the idea I just wanted to bring to market something that would change peoples lives for the better and give some dignity and independence (and style) to a community that have been terribly overlooked. Fashion weeks and Dragons Den and TedX talks never factored in to my plan they all just sort of happened.. I was initially inspired during one of many hospital stays; in 2016 a fellow patient spoke at length about how she couldn’t dress how she wanted to and I realised that neither could I- and that it was a very obvious problem across the board of health conditions and disabilities. What existed in 2016 was not what ‘I’ would want to wear and I wanted to use all I have learned in my now 16 year career for a better purpose.

2. Adaptive fashion is gaining momentum, but there’s still a long way to go. What do you see as the biggest misconception about adaptive design, and how do you address it through Unhidden?

There are 2 main misconceptions- thinking that the market is ‘small’ (it isn’t when it’s 1 in 4 people globally and 73% of consumers knowing someone with a disability) then thinking that it is more expensive. Yes, some more trims may be needed but we live in a world where we add false pockets, zips with no function just to add ‘style’.. All sorts of expensive design elements that serve no function apart from aesthetic. Big brands with big resources cannot claim they can’t afford those extra trims when I have been able to do it as a start up.

3. Universal design is a cornerstone of your brand. What were some of the most innovative solutions or techniques you’ve implemented, and what challenges did you face while developing them?

Really simple things like openings in the pockets for tubes to be fed through, as a standard in any garment I design that has pockets. Elasticating waistbands is something we see a lot of, I just add it to wovens so there is still a tailored look but with more comfort. Not using buttons and using instead poppers is a mainstay although I do want to offer zip entry as well- lots of poppers are fiddly too but easier than buttons. I think my background as a garment technologist who worked with companies at scale means I cut out a lot of the challenges around fit and design- but I still go straight to the community for feedback and focus groups to see where I can update or improve.

4. You’ve been an advocate for better representation of disability in the media and fashion. In what ways do you think the industry is progressing, and where is it still falling short?

I think they at least speak to me now where as 2 years ago it was hard to get a response out of the industry- but they’re still keeping it all at arms length. It’s the looks on peoples faces when I go to an event with a walking stick where I feel so isolated and ‘outcast’ which is a shame in an industry that likes to support alternative looks and creativity. Only when it’s palatable is the case for now. SO I think they’re starting to listen but it still feels performative at best at the moment.

5. As both a designer and a disability campaigner, how do you balance the creative and advocacy aspects of your work? Do these roles ever conflict, or do they always complement each other?

I have found they always complement each other; usually because people are often interested in what adaptive fashion means and why I do it even if I am delivering a workshop on inclusive language or my lived experience of disability, my career history comes up. I think the way they conflict is that it’s a lot to keep on top of and very easy to burnout in; because every day I am aware of the lack of access and/ or knowledge amongst the non disabled community and it’s a community of people all working so hard so you feel left behind if you aren’t constantly shouting- I am having to accept now that my main advocacy work goes on in meetings and boardrooms vs on social media.

6. Being recognized by Vogue and ranked among the most influential disabled people in the UK must have been incredible moments. How have these acknowledgments influenced your work and the visibility of adaptive fashion?

I think it has helped to lend credibility to the cause- it’s certainly sent people my way who have been key in scaling Unhidden and opening up my network- I think I am still a bit of a way away from designing the sort of occasion and tailored fashion the community needs because we need to get the basics right before I really let me creativity run riot- but it has sent brides to be my way so for now that as been an incredible outlet where I am not (as) aware of the budget.

7. You’re a patron, ambassador, and speaker. How do these roles amplify your mission, and what advice do you have for others wanting to create change in their communities?

In a world not designed for us, we need as many people as possible speaking up on this- lived experience is vital but we need the non disabled community to come on board and start sharing what they learn too so from that perspective that helps my mission- the downside however being that I used to do all of that for free and with energy limiting conditions I can no longer give away time or knowledge for nothing- but I did accept it was part of the deal in the beginning I was just slow to start setting boundaries so that is my main advice- have a strict lens on who you do and don’t work with and when you charge and when you don’t; controversially I think we need to go in to the rooms where we aren’t wanted (thinking of certain media publications here) because their readership still needs to know more and we don’t learn when we divide ourselves. There is always nuance.

With initiatives like the V&A Innovate Challenge and your work on Dragon’s Den, you’ve had a hand in shaping future generations. What excites you most about the future of adaptive and inclusive fashion?

That there are incredible start ups and recently graduated designers moving in to this space as well as retailers now really lasering in on it- this will lead to innovation in trims as well as design and that can only be a good thing. I can’t wait to see what other people come up with because *choice* is still what’s missing- no one shops in only one shop and we don’t all follow the same style/ aesthetic- so we need more and more people designing this way and I think that’s starting to happen more and more.

8. What has been the most surprising or rewarding feedback you’ve received from someone impacted by your work?

So many lovely comments and feedback I have had over the years.. From parents of models who had never seen them in trousers to people being able to wear a dress for the first time in a decade.. I think seeing models I work with go on to land even bigger brand work has been one of the best things so shout out to Glynis and Moeed who have gone on to do so much and supported my mission from the beginning.

9. If you could design an adaptive outfit for any historical figure or fictional character, who would it be and why?

Wow this is tough.. I would have loved to design a bespoke outfit for Judith Heumann; she did so much globally for our community. I often think about redesigning Disney princess outfits from an adaptive lens- imagine kids being able to see themselves in Disney and as a main character.. Or at least be able to dress like them. That would be wonderful.

Bio : 

Victoria Jenkins, founder of adaptive fashion brand Unhidden and leading advocate for disability inclusion. With over 16 years’ experience in the fashion industry, including at brands like Victoria Beckham, Victoria Jenkins founded her award-winning business Unhidden in 2016 informed by her own lived experience of living with chronic illness and disability. Unhidden has since been featured
on Dragon’s Den and showcased at London Fashion Week.

Victoria Jenkins has announced a partnership with Primark launching an adaptive fashion collection. A TEDx speaker, author and host on Channel 4’s ‘The Unique Boutique’, Victoria is ranked as one of the most influential disabled people in the UK by the Shaw Trust and sits on multiple charity boards as well as being Co-chair for The Lilac Review; a 2 year government backed look in to how to create equity for Disabled Entrepreneurs.

LinkedIN 

Interviewed by : Shivam Sharma 

Edited by : Shivam Sharma